中国传统文化结课论文课程名称：中国文化概况 学生姓名：李江艳 学 专 学 院：外国语学院 业：英语 号： [1**********]6任课老师：韩娇阳二零一四年十月General Introduction to The Women’s Costume in The Tang DynastyAbstract:The open clothing style and its softness and lightness make the women’s costume in Tang Dynasty so unique and distinctive.The Tang women dressed in sets of garments and each set a unique image in itself. Key words: exquisite, natural ,graceful ,elegant ,splendid Body: China was known as a “a land of dresses”.It has a long history in the development of its clothing culture .Dresses in different periods reflect ,to a certain extent ,the situation of the politics,economy ,military affairs ,religions ,and the civil customs of the specific historical stages.Women’s clothing is a leader in historical costumes ,clothing texture known as selection of natural and graceful and bold ,magnificent and elegant dress-up accessories.So I want to talk about the women’s costume in the Tang Dynasty. The ideas of Han Wudi making peace with the West countries had established not only the diplomatic contacts and economic relations but also the exchanges of the various culture and religion between East and West.The network of the Silk Road was soon flourished during the Tang Dynasty. The forms of garments in Tang Dynasty were still the continuation of the Han Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty, they wereinfluenced by cultures and arts of the West Regions.The trades and cultural exchanges with Korea, Vietnam, Japan, Persia and other countries gradually became frequent, and they mutually dispatched emissaries and accepted students of other countries. In this way, a special open and romantic style of dress and personal adorments was formed.Woman’s costume in various forms in the Tang Dynasty well illustrates the open-mindedness and affluence during that period. From the Sui to the Tang ,the ancient Chinese clothing developed to its peak ,the political stability and economic development ,manufacturing and texitle technology,the frequent foreign relations ,contributing to the development of clothing .Clothing were unique and natural which exhibited the exquisiteness and poise of the people.The frequent contacts with the western world had an influence on the dressing customs of the minor groups in the Tang period .This gave way to a newly remarkable and romantic type of fashion in clothes and ornaments.In Chinese history , every area has her own typical costume , which was the bright star in that area . Women’s dress and personal adornments of the Tang Dynasty are outstanding in China’s history .It is a major attraction of Tang Dynasty’s costume.The most typical form of Tang costume is bare chest and arms ,gossamer ,wide sleeve and long skirt.Women’s dress and personal adornments of the Tang Dynasty were outstanding in China’s history. The clothing materials were exquisite, the structure was natural , graceful and elegant , and adornments were splendid . The dresses of the Tang Dynasty were mainly made of silk, so dresses were famous for softness and lightness.The dresses of the Tang Dynasty boldly adopted the features of foreign garments in terms of forms and adorments, they mainly referred to the garments of other countries, such as the Central-Asia countries, India, Iran , Persia, north countries and the West Regions and used them to improve the culture of the Tang Dynasty. Tang women’s dresses can be classified into three categories: First ,the traditional ruqun or double layered or padded short Jacket that is typical of central China.Ruqunfu was the most popular in the Tang Dynasty,it is made of the top jacket and long gown and a skirt on the bottom .The jacket was generally very short just above the waist , matched with a shawl and a long dress,which was a outstanding feature at that time . The collar was usually very low . There were round neck, square collar , straight collar and so on. Bare-collar became popular and perhaps has been all over the ordinary people which was artistic images appearing in the history of the costume.It was really beautiful and charming.The tang women inherited this traditional style and developed it further ,opening up the collar as far as exposing the cleavage between thebreasts,this was unheard of and unimaginable in the previous dynasties ,in which women had to cover their entire body according to the Confucian classics ,but the new style was soon embraced by the open-minded aristocratic women of the Tang Dynasty. Second ,The hufu, or alien dress that came from the Silk Road.It was a fashion for women to wear Hufu which was garments of the Tartars or those who lived in the Western Regions . After the golden age of Tang Dynasty had ended ,the influence of Hufu,or clothing styles from Central and Western Asia ,gradually weakened and Tang royal women ’s clothing styles begin to take it’s transformation.Narrow cuff ,mandarin ,and turn-down collar are hufu’s typical features. Third ,Cross-Dressing( girls dressed as boys), the full set of male garments that broke the tradition of the Confucian formalities. It is extremely rare that women dress the man’s garments during the long period of Chinese feudal society .Chinese women were seriously restricted by the old Confucian or feudal ethical code all through the ages. The social status of ancient women was very low:they often served as musical performers, official performers,or palace performers, and were regarded as the playthings and goods that can be sold and bought by rich people. Because of communication with the West Regions, the influence of dressing culture of other minorities on the Tang Dynasty court asloreflected the change of thoughts and concepts. Some females had rebel spirit in the Tang Dnasty , so they climbed or jumped over the walls and went to the nature to view the beautiful scenes and go sightseeing in the spring by riding horses with men. Just as recorded by many historical materials , some girls therefore dressed as boys in order to go out.Compared with the gorgeous dress of Ruqun, a full set of men’s riding attire on women had its own unique flavor. The typical men’s wear in the Tang Dynasty included the Futou or turban , round collar jacket and gown, belt on the waist and dark leather boots. Their clothes were mainly round neck robes. The robes were used widely by emperors and officials and for occasions like visiting and banqueting and even for attending court.Women dressed like this sharp, unrestrained yet elegant. Tang women’s dresses also can be described by the development of Tang Dynasty.In beginning Tang ,ruqun was made up of two main parts:small jackets with narrow sleeves;tight long skirts with high tied waistbands.In flourishing Tang ,pibo ,also named as huabo came into fashion .Pibo was often made of light leno with patterns printed on it ,often longer than two meters.It was often wrapped around women ’s shoulders and than coiled around their arms.In the middle Tang ,Ruqun in middle Tang was similar with that in beginning Tang ,except that it was looser.In late Tang ,the influence of Hufu became weaker ,and women;s costumes became looser and looser .The cuffs were generally more than 4chi.And band-collar ,jacket ,high waistline skirt ,shendai ,and pibo also existed. There are not only so many types of clothes ,but also so many different colors of clothes.The color of the clothing also indicated rank ,Purple colored chothes were used by officials above the third grade ;light red were meant for officials above the fifth grade;dark green was limited to the sixth grade and above of officials;light green was solely for officials above the seventh grade; dark cyan was exclusive for officials above the eighth grade;light cyan garments adorned officials above the ninth grade ,The common people and all those who did not reside in the palace were allowed to wear yellow coloredclothes,Garments made from silk ,wool and linen were common. All of these make it deserve the most typical open clothing style ,The clothing materials are exquisite ,the structure isnatural ,graceful and elegant, and colors are diverse. The open clothing style and its softness and lightness make the women’s costume in Tang Dynasty so unique and distinctive .The Tang women dressed in sets of garments ,and each set a unique image in itself. What impressed most was that a feather skirt worn by a princess in the mid Tang Dynasty ,which was woven with feathers from a hundred birds. An outstanding piece of work in the history of Chinese costume and textiles, the skirt had varying colors in daytime and at night, undersunlight and under night light, held upright and upside-down. Moreover, images of birds were woven all over the skirt, coming to life in the play of light. Women’s costume in Tang Dynasty was so splendid not because of one reason ,but many determing factor. Here i only put forward three reasons for you . First ,in Chinese history ,the Tang Dynasty was a period of unity and prosperity when the polity and economy were highly developed ,Materialistic abundance and a relatively relaxed social atmosphere gave the Tang Dynasty an unprecedented opportunity to develop culturally ,reaching its height in poetry painting ,music and dance. Second ,based on the progress made in silk reeling and dyeing techniques ,the variety ,quality and quantity of textile materials reached an unprecedented height. Third,the Tang government was tolerant ,and often appreciative of religions ,art and culture from the outside world ,Though the forms of garments were still the continuation of the Han Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty ,they have distinctive styles by itself being influenced by cultures and arts of the Western Regions. The costume in the Tang Dynasty also greatly affected the garmentsof neighboring countries. For instances, Japanese kimono adopted the elites of the dress of the Tang Dynasty in terms of colors, and trditional Korea clothing also adopted the advantages of the dress of the Tang Dynasty were mainly made of the silk , so dresses were famous for softness and lightness . However, nowadays people call any front closure Chinese jacket the “Tang costume,” as a general term for addressing all traditional Chinese garments. The term is used only because people today take pride in those prosperous days. In reality, the modern “Tang costume” have far less of the luster extravagance and vitality compared to the real thing. Conclusion: Women in Tang Dynasty,to a certain degree ,was the most beautiful women among all the Dynasties.The society became more conscious of their clothing and their makeup. Different types of clothes appeared during the whole Dynasty,they are exquisite, natural ,graceful ,elegant and splendid .Meanwhile.the clothes became colorful and decorated with some patters.Bibliography: “the costume in the Tang Dynasty” (2009) Available from: Baidu ( http://baike.baidu.com/view/530326.htm). (accessed.28December ,2009) There are three types of the costume in the Tang Dynasty,which can help you understand well.ReferencesGeoffrey N. Leech. 1983. Principles of Pragmatics [M]. London: Longman 严辰松,高航. 2005. 语用学 [M].上海:上海外语教育出版社, 378-389.
中国传统文化结课论文课程名称：中国文化概况 学生姓名：李江艳 学 专 学 院：外国语学院 业：英语 号： [1**********]6任课老师：韩娇阳二零一四年十月General Introduction to The Women’s Costume in The Tang DynastyAbstract:The open clothing style and its softness and lightness make the women’s costume in Tang Dynasty so unique and distinctive.The Tang women dressed in sets of garments and each set a unique image in itself. Key words: exquisite, natural ,graceful ,elegant ,splendid Body: China was known as a “a land of dresses”.It has a long history in the development of its clothing culture .Dresses in different periods reflect ,to a certain extent ,the situation of the politics,economy ,military affairs ,religions ,and the civil customs of the specific historical stages.Women’s clothing is a leader in historical costumes ,clothing texture known as selection of natural and graceful and bold ,magnificent and elegant dress-up accessories.So I want to talk about the women’s costume in the Tang Dynasty. The ideas of Han Wudi making peace with the West countries had established not only the diplomatic contacts and economic relations but also the exchanges of the various culture and religion between East and West.The network of the Silk Road was soon flourished during the Tang Dynasty. The forms of garments in Tang Dynasty were still the continuation of the Han Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty, they wereinfluenced by cultures and arts of the West Regions.The trades and cultural exchanges with Korea, Vietnam, Japan, Persia and other countries gradually became frequent, and they mutually dispatched emissaries and accepted students of other countries. In this way, a special open and romantic style of dress and personal adorments was formed.Woman’s costume in various forms in the Tang Dynasty well illustrates the open-mindedness and affluence during that period. From the Sui to the Tang ,the ancient Chinese clothing developed to its peak ,the political stability and economic development ,manufacturing and texitle technology,the frequent foreign relations ,contributing to the development of clothing .Clothing were unique and natural which exhibited the exquisiteness and poise of the people.The frequent contacts with the western world had an influence on the dressing customs of the minor groups in the Tang period .This gave way to a newly remarkable and romantic type of fashion in clothes and ornaments.In Chinese history , every area has her own typical costume , which was the bright star in that area . Women’s dress and personal adornments of the Tang Dynasty are outstanding in China’s history .It is a major attraction of Tang Dynasty’s costume.The most typical form of Tang costume is bare chest and arms ,gossamer ,wide sleeve and long skirt.Women’s dress and personal adornments of the Tang Dynasty were outstanding in China’s history. The clothing materials were exquisite, the structure was natural , graceful and elegant , and adornments were splendid . The dresses of the Tang Dynasty were mainly made of silk, so dresses were famous for softness and lightness.The dresses of the Tang Dynasty boldly adopted the features of foreign garments in terms of forms and adorments, they mainly referred to the garments of other countries, such as the Central-Asia countries, India, Iran , Persia, north countries and the West Regions and used them to improve the culture of the Tang Dynasty. Tang women’s dresses can be classified into three categories: First ,the traditional ruqun or double layered or padded short Jacket that is typical of central China.Ruqunfu was the most popular in the Tang Dynasty,it is made of the top jacket and long gown and a skirt on the bottom .The jacket was generally very short just above the waist , matched with a shawl and a long dress,which was a outstanding feature at that time . The collar was usually very low . There were round neck, square collar , straight collar and so on. Bare-collar became popular and perhaps has been all over the ordinary people which was artistic images appearing in the history of the costume.It was really beautiful and charming.The tang women inherited this traditional style and developed it further ,opening up the collar as far as exposing the cleavage between thebreasts,this was unheard of and unimaginable in the previous dynasties ,in which women had to cover their entire body according to the Confucian classics ,but the new style was soon embraced by the open-minded aristocratic women of the Tang Dynasty. Second ,The hufu, or alien dress that came from the Silk Road.It was a fashion for women to wear Hufu which was garments of the Tartars or those who lived in the Western Regions . After the golden age of Tang Dynasty had ended ,the influence of Hufu,or clothing styles from Central and Western Asia ,gradually weakened and Tang royal women ’s clothing styles begin to take it’s transformation.Narrow cuff ,mandarin ,and turn-down collar are hufu’s typical features. Third ,Cross-Dressing( girls dressed as boys), the full set of male garments that broke the tradition of the Confucian formalities. It is extremely rare that women dress the man’s garments during the long period of Chinese feudal society .Chinese women were seriously restricted by the old Confucian or feudal ethical code all through the ages. The social status of ancient women was very low:they often served as musical performers, official performers,or palace performers, and were regarded as the playthings and goods that can be sold and bought by rich people. Because of communication with the West Regions, the influence of dressing culture of other minorities on the Tang Dynasty court asloreflected the change of thoughts and concepts. Some females had rebel spirit in the Tang Dnasty , so they climbed or jumped over the walls and went to the nature to view the beautiful scenes and go sightseeing in the spring by riding horses with men. Just as recorded by many historical materials , some girls therefore dressed as boys in order to go out.Compared with the gorgeous dress of Ruqun, a full set of men’s riding attire on women had its own unique flavor. The typical men’s wear in the Tang Dynasty included the Futou or turban , round collar jacket and gown, belt on the waist and dark leather boots. Their clothes were mainly round neck robes. The robes were used widely by emperors and officials and for occasions like visiting and banqueting and even for attending court.Women dressed like this sharp, unrestrained yet elegant. Tang women’s dresses also can be described by the development of Tang Dynasty.In beginning Tang ,ruqun was made up of two main parts:small jackets with narrow sleeves;tight long skirts with high tied waistbands.In flourishing Tang ,pibo ,also named as huabo came into fashion .Pibo was often made of light leno with patterns printed on it ,often longer than two meters.It was often wrapped around women ’s shoulders and than coiled around their arms.In the middle Tang ,Ruqun in middle Tang was similar with that in beginning Tang ,except that it was looser.In late Tang ,the influence of Hufu became weaker ,and women;s costumes became looser and looser .The cuffs were generally more than 4chi.And band-collar ,jacket ,high waistline skirt ,shendai ,and pibo also existed. There are not only so many types of clothes ,but also so many different colors of clothes.The color of the clothing also indicated rank ,Purple colored chothes were used by officials above the third grade ;light red were meant for officials above the fifth grade;dark green was limited to the sixth grade and above of officials;light green was solely for officials above the seventh grade; dark cyan was exclusive for officials above the eighth grade;light cyan garments adorned officials above the ninth grade ,The common people and all those who did not reside in the palace were allowed to wear yellow coloredclothes,Garments made from silk ,wool and linen were common. All of these make it deserve the most typical open clothing style ,The clothing materials are exquisite ,the structure isnatural ,graceful and elegant, and colors are diverse. The open clothing style and its softness and lightness make the women’s costume in Tang Dynasty so unique and distinctive .The Tang women dressed in sets of garments ,and each set a unique image in itself. What impressed most was that a feather skirt worn by a princess in the mid Tang Dynasty ,which was woven with feathers from a hundred birds. An outstanding piece of work in the history of Chinese costume and textiles, the skirt had varying colors in daytime and at night, undersunlight and under night light, held upright and upside-down. Moreover, images of birds were woven all over the skirt, coming to life in the play of light. Women’s costume in Tang Dynasty was so splendid not because of one reason ,but many determing factor. Here i only put forward three reasons for you . First ,in Chinese history ,the Tang Dynasty was a period of unity and prosperity when the polity and economy were highly developed ,Materialistic abundance and a relatively relaxed social atmosphere gave the Tang Dynasty an unprecedented opportunity to develop culturally ,reaching its height in poetry painting ,music and dance. Second ,based on the progress made in silk reeling and dyeing techniques ,the variety ,quality and quantity of textile materials reached an unprecedented height. Third,the Tang government was tolerant ,and often appreciative of religions ,art and culture from the outside world ,Though the forms of garments were still the continuation of the Han Dynasty and the Sui Dynasty ,they have distinctive styles by itself being influenced by cultures and arts of the Western Regions. The costume in the Tang Dynasty also greatly affected the garmentsof neighboring countries. For instances, Japanese kimono adopted the elites of the dress of the Tang Dynasty in terms of colors, and trditional Korea clothing also adopted the advantages of the dress of the Tang Dynasty were mainly made of the silk , so dresses were famous for softness and lightness . However, nowadays people call any front closure Chinese jacket the “Tang costume,” as a general term for addressing all traditional Chinese garments. The term is used only because people today take pride in those prosperous days. In reality, the modern “Tang costume” have far less of the luster extravagance and vitality compared to the real thing. Conclusion: Women in Tang Dynasty,to a certain degree ,was the most beautiful women among all the Dynasties.The society became more conscious of their clothing and their makeup. Different types of clothes appeared during the whole Dynasty,they are exquisite, natural ,graceful ,elegant and splendid .Meanwhile.the clothes became colorful and decorated with some patters.Bibliography: “the costume in the Tang Dynasty” (2009) Available from: Baidu ( http://baike.baidu.com/view/530326.htm). (accessed.28December ,2009) There are three types of the costume in the Tang Dynasty,which can help you understand well.ReferencesGeoffrey N. Leech. 1983. Principles of Pragmatics [M]. London: Longman 严辰松,高航. 2005. 语用学 [M].上海:上海外语教育出版社, 378-389.